Regions
Isan, Northeast Thailand: The Region the Travel Guides Overlook
It is the most populous region in the country—and the least visited. No beaches, no world-famous attractions—and that is precisely what makes it so interesting.
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Isan is the vast plateau in northeastern Thailand, bordered to the north and east by the Mekong River, which forms the border with Laos. It isthe country’s most populous region, and by far the least visited by foreigners: almost no French-language guidebooks cover it, and it appears on virtually no two-week itineraries.
Yet it has its own language—similar to Lao—its own cuisine, which is significantly spicier than that of the rest of the country, and an identity that the tourist regions have lost. You don’t go there to check off a list of sights. You go there to see what Thailand is really like when it’s not putting on a show.
What Sets Isan Apart from the Rest of the Country
| Location | northeastern plateau, bordering Laos along the Mekong River and Cambodia to the south |
|---|---|
| Language | Isan, which is similar to Lao, in addition to Thai. English is not widely spoken |
| Kitchen | spicier, sticky rice, green papaya salad, grilled meats |
| Landscape | rice paddies, plateau, the Mekong, national parks in the south |
| Attendance | very low; expatriates who have settled there rather than travelers passing through |
| Best period | from November through February |
The food—for many, the real reason to go there
Isan cuisine is the one that has spread the most throughout the rest of Thailand and around the world, even though its origins are unknown. Som tam, a salad made with pounded green papaya, comes from here. Sticky rice is eaten here instead of white rice, and it’s eaten with the fingers. Grilled meats, marinated chicken, and fermented sausages round out the meal.
A helpful warning: the dishes here are actually spicier than elsewhere, and asking for a mild dish isn't always understood in the same way as it is in France. Details about the dishes will be available on the "Thai Dishes" page coming soon.
Muay Thai: A Region and a Hotbed
Most of the great Muay Thai champions come from Isan. This isn’t just a matter of chance or talent: it’s the poorest region in the country, and the sport has long served as a pathway to social mobility there. Children start training early, village fights are part of everyday life, and the atmosphere is nothing like that of the big stadiums in Bangkok.
The full topic is covered in the dedicated section: Muay Thai in Thailand and training camps.
How to Get There
Flying from Bangkok is the easiest option: it’s about an hour’s flight to Udon Thani, Khon Kaen, Ubon Ratchathani, or Roi Et, for 30 to 60 euros if booked in advance. This is about the same price as anywhere else in the country, and it completely changes how you plan your itinerary.
The overnight train from Bangkok also serves the region. It’s slower, but it doesn’t take a whole day to get there. Details are on the “Trains inThailand” page ( coming soon).
Who this region is suitable for, and who it is not suitable for
It's a good fit for anyone who has already visited Thailand once, anyone traveling for more than a month, anyone looking for really low prices, and anyone who is okay with not understanding everything around them.
It's not suitable for a first-time two-week stay, nor for anyone looking for the beach, nor for anyone who relies on English to get by everywhere. There's no beach, the distances are long, and the accommodations are rather basic.
In summary
Isan is Thailand’s most populous region and the least visited: no beaches, no world-famous attractions, a language similar to Lao, and cuisine that’s much spicier. People go there for the Mekong River, for a taste of everyday rural life, and for prices that the rest of Thailand has long since forgotten. It’s also the region where most Muay Thai champions come from. Best saved for a second trip or a longer stay. The regional map is on theThailand map page.
What is Isan in Thailand?
The vast northeastern plateau, bordered by the Mekong River, which forms the border with Laos. It is the country’s most populous region and the one least visited by foreigners, with its own language—similar to Lao—and its own cuisine, which is significantly spicier.
Why do so few tourists visit Isan?
Because there are no beaches or world-famous protected sites, and French-language guidebooks hardly mention it at all. That’s also what makes it so interesting: you get to see the country as it really is, without any staging for visitors.
How do I get to Isan?
By plane from Bangkok to Udon Thani, Khon Kaen, Ubon Ratchathani, or Roi Et—the flight takes about an hour and costs between €30 and €60. The overnight train from Bangkok also serves the region; it’s slower but doesn’t take a whole day.
Do you need to speak Thai to travel in Isan?
Knowing a few words goes a long way, because English is much less widely spoken here than in the south or in Bangkok. The main language spoken here is Isan, which is similar to Lao. Communication largely relies on gestures and smiles, and it works.
What's the connection between Isan and Muay Thai?
Most of the great champions come from this region. There, the sport has long served as a pathway to social mobility, and village fights are part of everyday life, far from the stadiums of Bangkok.
When is the best time to visit Isan?
From November through February, when temperatures are most bearable. The region is hot and dry for much of the year, and the months from March through May are particularly grueling there.